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Knots - Slim Beauty

Slim Beauty Knot - Step 1 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 2 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 3 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 4 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 5 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 6 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 7 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 8 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 9 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 10 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 11 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 12 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 13 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 14 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 15 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 16 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 17 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 18 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 19 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 20 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 21 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 22 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 23 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 24 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 25 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 26 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 27 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 28 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 29 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 30 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 31 Slim Beauty Knot - Step 32
1 - 5: Tie a double overhand knot several inches from the end of the shock tippet and tighten it until the knot turns over into a figure-8.
6 - 9:

Double over the thinner line (your class tippet) about a foot and a half from the end. The doubled section should be about 18" long. It helps to crimp the bend with a pair of pliers or your teeth.

Starting at the short end of the class tippet (the end that will be closest to your fly line) pass the doubled line through the figure-8 knot in the shock tippet. The doubled line should go in the same way the tag end of the class tippet comes out of the close hole and exit the same way the standing line comes out of the other hole. If you're not sure where to pass the class tippet through read the following: The figure-8 knot has a convex (outside) and concave (inside) curve. As the knot tightens the convex side will be the outside of the knot. The class tippet must go in through the convex curve on the tag-end side and pass out through the concave curve on the opposite side. When the line is completely through it will stick out of the convex curve on both ends. As the knot tightens it will tighten around the class tippet which will pass straight through the center. If you see a crimp anywhere in the class tippet when you tighten your knot it isn't passed through correctly.

Pull 8-10" of the doubled class tippet through the knot.

10 - 11: Tighten down the figure-8 knot in the shock tippet with your hands, taking care to lubricate it. You may use pliers if you prefer but make sure not to tighten the knot down so much that the class tippet will bind when being pulled through.
12 - 21:

This step will take both hands and possibly your mouth as well. Hold the knot and the doubled line extending from the knot in one hand. Keep a small gap between the doubled line and the shock tippet for the line to pass through later.

Using your free hand wrap the doubled line up the shock tippet 4 times and back down over itself 3 times. Pass the tag end through the gap formed between the doubled line and the shock tippet right by the figure-8 knot. The knot will seat more easily in the next step if you work to keep the two legs of the doubled line together with even pressure while wrapping. DO NOT pull on the doubled line after passing it back through the gap.

22 - 28:

Seat the knot by pulling on the two separate lengths of class tippet (the standing line which will attach to your leader and the tag end) on one end and the shock tippet on the other. Be sure to grab the two pieces of the class tippet firmly since the knot will not seat correctly if there is different pressure on each of the lines. You have one good chance to seat the knot correctly so get it right! Lubricate the knot well and with steady pressure pull until the knot is completely seated. The knot should slide down into a series of barrel wraps butted right up against the now entirely closed figure-8 knot. If the knot doesn't seat correctly it will not be nearly as strong so be sure the wraps are even with no gaps.

If you have trouble seating the knot there are a couple things you can try. First, make sure the wraps of the doubled class tippet are parallel and even. It may help to use your free hand to make wraps by pushing the parallel doubled line around the shock tippet and use your mouth to hold the tag end and maintain pressure between wraps. The knot will seat better if the wraps are completely even before tightening. Do what you can to even things out before seating the knot. If the tag end of the doubled line protruding from the side of the finished knot has a loose loop inside the knot it is probably because there was too much of a gap left between the wraps of doubled line and the figure-8 when you seated the knot. The best way to make this gap smaller is by wrapping closer to the gap next time but you may be able to work it down carefully by pulling tag ends and sliding loops.

29 - 31: You will have 6 pieces of line sticking out of the knot (if you count the doubled section as two). Clip all but the shock tippet protruding out of the barrel wraps and the long section of class tippet coming out of the figure-8.
32: Finished!